Surviving Mai Tai Tom’s “Royal” Blunder: 2022 England & Scotland

CHAPTER FOUR: Stepping It Up In York

Day Four: Where’s Boris Johnson?, An Explosive Pub, My Life’s In A Shambles, Stairway To Heaven, Tower of Power, Checking Out York’s Past, A Change In Plans, Walking In Circles, I’m Trembling (Part One), Old Tom, Near Death Experience and Going Italiano

I’d booked four tickets at 9:06 a.m. for our train to York. As usual, I cajoled my traveling companions to get to King’s Cross station an hour early because I have an inordinate fear of being late to a train (same with planes). The good news is since we purchased first class tickets, we were able to enjoy free coffee and cookies. This is the lounge where we had a Boris Johnson hair sighting in 2017.  It looks virtually the same as it did back then, except I had darker hair.

We did not have time for Tracy to do her thing at Platform 9 3/4, however.

On the 2 1/2 hour train trip we were offered a choice of a Bacon Roll with Brown Sauce, a porridge pot, a pan au chocolate (I talked her into two) and another dozen cups of coffee.

At the York train station this sign seemed to tell me, “Even though you’ve consumed copious amounts of coffee, I think you can hold it until you reach your lodging.”

We took a taxi to our lodging for the next three nights, the St. Raphael Guesthouse (photo from next day). The location on a quiet street, and a short walk to the city walls, was perfect.

Asking our hosts directions to town they replied, “Just make a right at the top of the street and within 5 minutes you will arrive at the Boothham Bar.” I thought a pint sounded pretty good, but was told that Bootham Bar is actually the 11th century arched gateway into town. I subsequently learned that “in 1501 a door knocker was installed as Scots were required to knock first and seek permission from the Lord Mayor to enter.” It was also “sometimes used to display the heads of traitors, [including] the heads of three rebels opposing Charles II’s restoration were placed here in 1663.” It would also be the spot where Kim and Tracy were nearly killed a few hours later, although it had nothing to do with beheading.

                                                  

York had always been on my short list as a place to visit, and it would not disappoint.

Another five minutes and we arrived at The York Minster, where we had reservations to visit on our final day in York.

Before we could start seeing the sights, we decided to grab a light lunch. The personable Danny, who worked at St. Raphael Guesthouse, had suggested we try the Guy Fawkes Inn, an inn that “allegedly” is where Guy Fawkes, the man behind the 1605 Gunpowder Plot to assassinate King James I, was born.

                                                                     

We were too hungry to kill anyone, so we settled for a very good lunch.

Two dishes stood out. Mary said her fish sandwich was the best she ever tasted (and as we all know by now, Mary was born with gills), while I reveled in my cheese toastie with spicy hummus (a dish that I am now imploring Tracy to make at home).

                       

The York Minster can be seen at various points throughout the town.

Less than five minutes from the Guy Fawkes Inn we entered the Shambles, which is what my friends called my dorm room at San Diego State. The Shambles is one of five Snickelways (narrow passageways between buildings) in York. There are lots of shops in what is called the “most haunted city in England.”

                                                 

In a nod to Harry Potter we passed The Potion’s Cauldron, which is appropriately located at 9 3/4 Shambles.

Next we passed by Margaret Clitherow’s House. For sheltering a priest during the anti-Catholicism period in Elizabethan England, she was executed. It’s thought that Guy Fawkes witnessed her execution, which is why he turned to Catholicism and his future attempt to assassinate the King.

Turning the corner was a half-timbered building that simply stated “York Gin.”  I was hoping next door would be a sign that read “York Tonic.”

A “broody sky” silhouetted The York Magistrates Court. Thank you Tracy.

                             

A short distance later we were gazing up at Clifford’s Tower, and I mean UP. My legs wanted to go on strike, but my brain vetoed that idea. We had been told by an ex-RAF gentleman (Julian) we met the train, that Clifford’s Tower had recently reopened after an extensive £5 million renovation that significantly altered the interior of this 800 year-old building, which is all that’s left of York Castle.

    

As you can see, the work did not include an elevator. Although only a mere 55 steps to the top, we had to admit they were a steep 55 steps. Local Yorkshire citizens were seen taking bets if this guy could make it. Although odds went off at nearly 70-1, I persevered.

                     

Entrance fee to the tower for two people totaled £17.50 (for old people you save £.50 ). Inside the tower there are new aerial walkways that offer a much better viewing experience for the visitor, according to our train friend Julian.

                                                                 

There is also lots of information about the history of Clifford’s Tower, and some of it is quite disturbing. In March of 1190, there was anti-Jewish rioting, and York Castle sheltered nearly 150 Jewish people inside “the King’s Tower,” which is the site of Clifford’s Tower.  On March 16, the Jews determined they could no longer hold out against the mob. After setting fire to the wooden structure, “many of them killed themselves rather than waiting for the mob to attack or surrender and be forcibly baptized. The father of each family killed his wife and children before taking his own life.” Although promised amnesty if they left the tower, any Jew who did that was killed by the mob.

                

After reading about that tragedy and other tower history, we climbed atop the aerial walkway for interior views and wound up a stone stairway to the top.

                                                                    

The clouds made for some pretty shots looking over York.

             

They did a great job on the restoration, and in talking with locals they are justifiably proud.

Below we saw our next destination, the York Castle Museum (£14, but only £13 for old codgers like us). Similar to the Museum of London, this museum details life through the centuries here in York.

Rooms decorated like they would have been back in the 17th and 18th century were highlighted.

                         

Some were quite colorful.

There is a section detailing the history of children’s toys and other fun stuff. It was here Tracy asked me if I wanted to take a three-hour tour on the carousel. I replied, “Only if I can be with MaryAnn.”

                     

How the hell do you get on this thing? Sadly, there was no spokesperson around to give me an answer.

I don’t know why Tracy pointed this sign out to me.

Kim said we should visit Kirkgate, which I assumed was a time portal to the Starship Enterprise. Instead, it is a perfect replication of an old Victorian street.

We passed by shops from a bygone era.

                   

For a moment one felt like you were actually back in Victorian times, except for the iPhone camera shots.

                                       

For you car aficionados, this is a Colibri motorcar by the Norddeutsche Automobile-Werke … circa 1907. Coincidentally, we were now walking at an accelerated pace.

I found it slightly amusing I had no pence to execute this machine, while the rest took stock of the torture devices.

                                         

The post World War I area was interesting, and once again that group from Liverpool was featured in the 60s section.

                                                     

Of course, this is just a small capsule of what we saw there.

The museum is done well, but we all agreed the city museums are probably more intriguing for locals to learn about their ancestors and predecessors. 

After the museum we stopped at a restaurant highly recommended by Danny at our B&B. We did not have reservations for our final night anywhere, and this place (Rustique) only had reservations at 5 p.m. The menu looked great, so we took the bait and made reservations for the “Before Sunset Dinner” for our final evening.

Then came a little Keystone Cops comedy adventure for the four of us. I had told the gang about a pub my buddy Andy had recommended, The House of Trembling Madness. It was a little bit of madness getting there as Mary’s GPS directions took us on a circuitous route. We did pass by the Shambles Market. 

Somebody was happy after an evening with Mrs. Brown, but we were still lost.

Unfortunately, then I got involved, and my GPS took us in an entirely different direction. I started off the other way and, well, it wasn’t going very well for stubborn me either. We received a text from Mary shortly thereafter saying they had asked someone and were now sitting at the bar. I followed suit and when I got in the general vicinity, I also asked a person where the House of Trembling Madness was located. We should really do that more often. You get to the House of Trembling Madness on Stonegate by first going through a liquor store and then up a set of stairs in the back.

                                           

The bar is quirky, and the beer was good with a very accommodating staff.

          

The liquor store downstairs had an airplane sized bottle of Old Tom York Gin. I’m old. I’m Tom. I like gin. How could I pass that up?

A few minutes later, Mary and I nearly became spouseless.  The traffic light at the Bootham Bar intersection is kind of weird to navigate.  The green and red lights for walking are at an angle, so sometimes it’s confusing whether it’s your turn to walk or not.  To Kim and Tracy it looked like it was safe to walk so out they stepped.  Fortunately, Mary instantly realized their error and screamed “Get back!” so loud you could hear it in Durham.  Kim and Tracy immediately stepped back and narrowly missed becoming York roadkill.

We walked back to the St. Raphael Guesthouse for a quick nap before dining at Lucia (13 Swinegate Court East), an Italian restaurant that had been recommended by our hosts. I made online reservations before the trip as they said it gets busy.Lucia is a very engaging spot with pink flowers and white marble inside and an inviting patio area outdoors. We were seated inside.  All of our meals here were exceptional. Here are a couple of dishes to whet your appetite. And here is a link to our review of Lucia.

     

We strolled back to our b&b, looking forward to the following day. We’d see some more York sights including a morning walk through some lovely gardens that included the ruins of an ancient abbey, walking the city walls (a couple of times), visiting a historic old church, have an adventure trying to pick up our rental car, finding another bit of Madness and enjoying our second great Lucia dinner.

There would also be a parade that would march through town, and it was during part of the pomp and circumstance where one stupid tourist made a major mistake in judgement that had many York citizens looking on in total bemusement while one York police officer took immediate charge of the situation.

Next – Chapter Five: Five-Star Gardens, High Chairs, No Manors, Hitting The Wall, Not On The Money, A Crucial Mistake In Judgement, Running Into An Old Royal Friend, Fawkes’ Church, Getting On Track, Elusive Europcar, Can I See Your License Again, Hitting The Wall (Part Two), Trembling Again, Not A Cosy Place & Return To Italy