Mai Tai Tom Stays On Track Through Belgium, Paris and Strasbourg

Chapter Four: Bruges Is Much More Than A Day Trip

Day Four: Get a Room!, The Flemish Primitives, A Home Attached To The Church, Don’t Dust The Unicorn, Not Your Average Hospital, Losing My Cookies, Using Our Noodles, Topless Bartenders, Begin The Béguine, Lake Of Love (And Death), Beer At A “Shabby Chic” Castle, Hot Chocolate & Wine, One Restaurant I Wanted To Try & Turning Blue Looking For Blue

Up early again because we had 10 a.m. reservations at the Groeningemuseum, we spotted more of the many pieces of art the hotel displays. These guys obviously knew the ropes.

We stopped for the requisite canal photos as we strolled through town.

                                               

As we approached Bonifaciusbrug, we explored the nearby Arentshof Park, which contained numerous statues.

The most interesting were De Vier Ruiters van de Apocalyps (The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse), Revolution, War, Hunger and Death were represented, but we cut to the chase and just took photos of hunger and death in the park, virtually in the shadow of Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk.

   

Reaching the bridge, we took some photos (the one on the left from yesterday …

                            

… but then Tracy and I witnessed something which is still etched in our minds. In a secluded area near the bridge, it looked like Kim and Mary were becoming quite amorous in a serious public display of affection. As it turned out, she was just helping crack Kim’s back (or so they claim).

It was a short walk from there …

     

… to the Groeningemuseum. It was here we would learn about the Flemish Primitives, which at this time in the 15th century was a new movement in painting, started by Jan van Eyck, Robert Campin and an old favorite of ours, Rogier van der Weyden.

There are two copies of his work here, The Portrait of Philip The Good wearing the Order of the Golden Fleece, and Saint Luke Drawing The Madonna.

                                                          

Here is one of van Eyck’s creations. His Madonna with Canon Joris van der Paele is considered one of the museum’s top masterpieces, complete with St. George giving a tip of his hat.Hans Memling worked in van der Weyden’s workshop.

From the Death and the Miser to the The Martyrdom of Saint Catherine, there are plenty of end of life paintings …

                                   

… like this corrupt judge being flayed to death in The Judgement of Cambyses by Gerard David.

       

An interesting character enters from the right in The Last Supper by Pieter Pourbus.

Even Lord Byron could not escape his death bed. Does anybody live in these paintings?.

The museum has a Bosch … or does it? The Last Judgement had been attributed to Bosch, his workshop or a collaboration of the two. From The Garden of Eden on the left to Hell on the right and weird stuff with imaginary creatures doing their thing in between, I loved it. I might need psychological help.

I also patiently viewed his Triptych of Job.

More death awaited Belisarius’ wife.

Finally some positiveness in the Allegory of the Peace of the Low Countries from the 16th century. The painting symbolizes peace between the Catholic and Protestant provinces.

The paintings of Archdukes Albert and Isabella and our trip through six centuries of art by Belgian artists was complete. It turned out to be quite a fascinating learning experience.

                                                                 

How do people know which one is theirs?

In a matter of minutes we were at the next of three museums of the day. I seem to be getting a little cocky (especially since it was raining) at this stair navigation thing.

The Gruuthusemuseum takes a look at 500 years of Bruges history. Located in a palace built in the late 1400s, it served as the “base of operations” for the Gruuthuse family, and contains a number of artifacts that bring to life those five centuries. Luis of Bruges (aka Louis of Gruuthuse) was a wealthy man thanks to … beer. At the time, according to the Visit Flanders website, there “was a consumption tax on gruit, then an important component of beer. With few exceptions, it was forbidden to brew, distribute or import beer that was not prepared with this family’s gruit.” The house is even connected to OLV-kerk.

Between St. Michael and St. George, it was tough being a dragon.

                                

We might be nuts, but if there is something with a squirrel, it will be photographed.

There was lots of interesting furniture pieces like this cabinet from the late 17th century.

She’s on top of the world in this tapestry …

… along with other artwork and dinnerware in this room. 

                              

This late 18th-century fan depicts a “marriage proposal in a pastoral landscape.”

We wound up a circular staircase with stained-glass windows and more tapestries.

                           

Gruuthuse had his own private chapel that was connected to O.L.V.-kerk. This tapestry from the Rubens workshop is entitled The Piety of Hannah.

As expected, there were lots of religious artifacts.

Unfortunately there was a large group of people, which made getting to the oratory and seeing the window that actually looks into part of Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk virtually impossible. This photo is courtesy of the Visit Flanders website.

The terrace has some nice views out toward Bruges.

The poster of the Bruges 1907 Exposition stood out in the next room.

                                         

Usually on these trips, I’m the one who gets reprimanded. This time, however, it was Mary. As we descended the staircase there was a statue of a unicorn. Mary must have seen a little dust, and being the impeccable housekeeper that she is, attempted to dust it. From out of nowhere a loud “Non!” was heard.

We took a glance at the decoratively carved ceiling, and our time at the Gruuthuse Museum was history. Kim and Mary took off for O.L.V.-kerk, which they had skipped the day before. Before leaving, we admonished Mary not to dust the Michelangelo Madonna. Meanwhile we were off to the hospital … for historical purposes only. Along with the Groeningemuseum, Sint-Jansspitaal & Memlingmuseum are two of the biggest biggest tickets in town. Before entering Sint-Jansspitaal (Museum of St. John’s Hospital) and Memlingmuseum, was a sculpture called Pax (or Kiss of Peace). It shows two monks attempting to comfort each other after their monastery was bombed during World War II.

                                                                    

While I have been known to frequent hospitals on other trips, this was only to see one of the oldest preserved hospital buildings in Europe. In the 12th century, the hospital was a refuge for those who needed medical care or even just a place to sleep. Today it is also a museum with many treasures, some by the great early Netherlandish, Flemish Primitive Hans Memling, which included the Altarpiece of John the Baptist and John the Evangelist. He was a German, who emigrated to Bruges … but I’m getting ahead of myself.

People who came to Sint-Jansspitaal were treated with respect and kindness, along with receiving food and even a cold brew or two.

                                         

Nuns were the caretakers. They followed the rule of St. Augustine, who was often depicted with a burning arrow.

                                             

I took a quick glance in another direction and wondered, “Why is that woman holding a pig?” As it turned out, the woman was part of the contemporary sculpture, The Bridge. It’s “a woman lovingly embracing a chimaera, half human, half pig.” The lesson is to love people regardless of race, religion or belief.

This “Christmas crib” is from the mid 15th century. It’s called that because sisters “rocked the crib” (sounds like a dance party) of baby Jesus.

Some of the sick were transported to the hospital in this Sedan Chair.

The Whisper Sofa, which had recently been installed, also has a message. The artists asked people of Bruges “to donate garments of loved ones” to the hospital. Along with personal testimonies, the artists made this sofa in an attempt to deal with sorrow and grief.

Patients were given hope by touching the remains of saints. Apollonia was supposed to help with toothaches.

Cornilius dealt with fits and Roch with the plague. When all else failed Ursula and Barbara made sure you didn’t die suddenly, so you’d be prepared for life after death.

                  

We passed by the chapel …

        

… and then it was time to see Memling’s ultimate masterpiece, The Shrine of Ursula. This gilded, mini-cathedral tells the tale of Saint Ursula with a set of paintings. The shrine supposedly “preserved the relics of 11,000 virgins.” Nope, I’m not going there.

On one side of the shrine, Ursula is shown protecting her “companions” while holding the arrow that killed her. It is an impressive piece to say the least.

Before leaving we saw one more Memling painting …

… and a painting of the old wards that has recently been restored. Another memorable stop in Bruges.

Out in the courtyard we could have stopped at the sister Apothecary, but we had already stopped to get preventative cough medicine, plus we were starving.

In search of a restaurant, instead we came upon a vibrant store that flaunted an array of macarons. I was unable to resist the urge.

                                        

We bought a couple, which were put in a box. Outside, Tracy took a lovely photo and then handed off the box to me for some reason. I fumbled the pass and the two macarons lay dead on the cobblestones. The scene was so horrific we couldn’t even a take photo of the deceased sweets. We went back inside and purchased two more, with Tracy handing me one … carefully.

                                          

As we walked, I told Tracy, “Avenue Maria seemingly goes everywhere in town.” Oh, now I get it.

I told Tracy that that was a lovely display of purses. She told me that they weren’t really purses, but chocolate. I didn’t dare try to pick one up.

Now very hungry and deciding we could not just live on Flemish stew alone, we discovered Marco Polo, where we decided to Thai one on.

               

The mother-daughter combo cooked up some delicious dishes that really hit the spot.

They were very nice, too. If in town, give it a try when you need a diversion.

This sign might be as clever as any one I’ve seen.

We texted Kim and Mary to meet us at another brewery. We hopped on over to Huisbrouwerij De Halve Maan, which I had read was the most popular brewery in Bruges. And they were right. It was filled with damn tourists, so locals like us just decided to leave in search of greener pastures.

                                                

Dear God, they’re everywhere! He still gives me nightmares.

We headed toward Minnewaterpark and first passed by One Restaurant, which is actually the name. We had reservations for dinner on this evening.

Not far from there was Sashuis (Lock keeper’s house), a 16th-century former masterpiece guardian house. It seems locks were built here in the 12th century, and “this building regulated the water management for the Bruges canals until the 1970s.”

We took in a terrific view of Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk.

Next up were a row of whitewashed houses. Beginjnhof is a 13th-century beguinage (“an architectural complex which was created to house béguines: lay religious women who lived in community without taking vows or retiring from the world”). Today it houses Benedictine nuns. They do allow visitors, but it was too late to begin the béguine tour.

Two lovely couples stopped for a brief respite.

   

A building had dominated our views as we strolled around the lake, and it looked like it had a patio where four weary souls could find comfort in a libation.

              

We arrived at Kasteel Minnewater, and sure enough there was a terrace upon which to relax and have a beer and wine. The setting is charming, but the property has seen better days. I kind of worried when I saw this sign.

                                               

Tracy called it, “shabby chic.” That was good enough for us and after finishing our drinks, we were on our way again. Somebody could turn this into quite a moneymaker, and I don’t say that in jest.

                                       

We came upon the only part of Minnewaterpark that one can feed the swans. I think they knew it.

There are many legends surrounding what is called The Lake of Love. Once upon a time, “a young maiden whose name was Minna once lived in Bruges, and was hopelessly in love with Stromberg, a humble fellow her father did not approve of.’ Her dad didn’t like that and set her up with another guy.”  Minna left, but didn’t want to displease Stromberg or her dad, and soon she went missing. “When Stromberg found her she was so weak that she died in his arms.” Stromberg “built a dam in the river to dry out the middle, on the dry bedding he made a grave where he laid his Minna to rest forever. Then let the water back in again. On the bank where he had found Minna, he placed a heavy rock on which he engraved  Minna water. Where once stood the stone, now stands the ‘Poertoren by the Minnewater’, and where once the dam was is now the Minnewater Bridge. All loving couples want to take a picture there.” We’d see that bridge later tonight.

 

Some more canal stops, and we were back in town …

… where we saved Kim from an oncoming bicycle. Just kidding, that wouldn’t happen for a few more days.

                           

While Tracy and Mary went in search of scarfs, Kim and I settled in to a table overlooking a canal at a place called Opus Latino, which touted its location as the “best hidden terrace in Bruges.” It was pretty chilly, so Kim ordered a hot chocolate. It was pretty chilly, so I ordered more wine. I guess that’s why Kim looks in better shape than me in this photo.

                                       

Dinner at One Restaurant that evening was quite good, and the restaurant oozed charm in a rather old-world setting.

                                                         

It’s a family affair, as the son is the chef and his mom the hostess.

There is also a patio overlooking the water, but it was too cold, even if we had ordered a hot chocolate.

For an appetizer, we split a couple of really good cheese croquettes with a crunchy exterior. They were perfect.

Kim and Mary enjoyed their sea bass, while Tracy opted for a very good goat cheese salad, with frites (of course)

                               

I loved my meat balls in cherry sauce … with frites.

As we left, I realized we still hadn’t quite hit the blue hour, which I very much wanted to witness at the Rosary Quay.

Along the way, we took a gander at the Bridge of Love (and Death) …

… as well as the bridge we had seen previously. Sorry swans, no time to stop and feed you.

          

Walking very fast (well, as fast as an old man can walk), at times I would slow down to see if my EKG looked normal.

Our macaron shop was just as beautiful at night.

                                           

We continued on as the blue hour fast approached.

Getting…

… closer.

       

It came into sight.

                           

It was as beautiful as I thought it would be, if not more so.

               

Of course, there’s always that one guy to ruin a glorious photo.

There’s much to see and experience in Bruges.

I know many people just make it a day trip, but similar to Sintra, Portugal, it’s worth more time than that.

Back to the hotel, and off to bed. We had an early train the next morning because the four of us wanted to pay our respects to “the most stolen piece of artwork in history” located in nearby Ghent.

Chapter Five: Ghent Me To The Altar (Piece) On Time

Day Five: City Of Bikes, Bravo Bavo, Take It On The Lamb, Hard Act To Follow, A Visit with St. Nick, Gravensteen Apple Of My Eye, Michael’s Bridge, Dinner On The Canal, Not Again You Two