The Old Ones At “The Old Ones”

As Velhas – Lisbon, Portugal

Visited: September 2022

So many great dinners in Lisbon! We stayed at the Altis Avenida hotel, across the street from Praça dos Restauradores, the square that commemorates Portugal’s liberation from Spanish rule in 1640. It sits at the beginning of the gorgeous tree-lined Avenida da Liberdade. Only a five minute walk along that route is As Velhas (R. da Conceição da Glória 21), which literally translated means “The Old Ones.” We were right at home.

Our server Antonio was as personable as they come. He told us the restaurant had been at this location since 1925 and was opened by two sisters affectionately called “the old women.” 

They occupied a prominent position on the wall.

We admired the charming atmosphere and decor of As Velhas. Although there is outside seating, we sat inside under the timber beams offering a little old-school charm. Antonio was delightful throughout the evening as he and Mary became chummy (Mary has a way with waiters). The room became full 30 minutes after we sat down.

As great as the atmosphere, the actual dinner was even better. Antonio suggested we start with the tempura green beans, which garnered a “wow” from the table. Also good was the alheira de caça, crispy game sausage made with rabbit and deer. (Hey, there’s a hare in my sausage!)

The main courses all shined: I absolutely loved my Bife do Lombo à Café (beef fillet with coffee sauce and fries,) which were grounds for celebration, as did Kim with his Rojões à Transmontana (roasted pork, potatoes and chestnuts with sautéed greens). My steak could not have been cooked any better. As I would find out on our nearly three-week Portugal trip, the beef in Portugal is excellent.

The ladies also raved about their meal. Mary opted for Bacalhau d’As Velhas (baked codfish with onion stew and crispy potatoes), while Tracy went with Bife do Lombo à ‘Marrare’ (beef fillet with black pepper sauce and fries). Prices were quite reasonable.

Note: There was one dish that went by us several times that seemed very popular and smelled divine. Antonio told us it was the Coelho à ‘Caçador’ (rabbit with onion stew, fried potatoes & toasted bread). As Velhas turned out to be one of our two favorite restaurants in Lisbon (all six dinners shined).  We passed on the dessert cart, but I was tempted by the lemon meringue pie.

Finally, Antonio and Mary couldn’t contain themselves anymore, and an after dinner photo was in order. We dragged her away before an international affair started. When in Lisbon, give As Velhas a try.

As Velhas
R. da Conceição da Glória 21, Lisboa 1250-079
Phone: +351 21 342 2490
Monday – Saturday 12:30 pm – 3 pm & 7 pm – 10 pm
For Reservations: letsumai.com