Underwood Bar & Bistro – Graton, CA

Hidden Gem Restaurant In A Hidden Gem Town

Underwood Bar & Bistro – Graton, CA

Visited July 2026

As we (especially me) grow older, Tracy and I yearn for the ambiance and good food of classic restaurants, so when friends Kim and Mary told us about just such a place called the Underwood Bar & Bistro in Graton, California, we jumped at the opportunity. My only question, “Where the heck is Graton?” Nestled in the rolling hills of Sonoma County between Sebastopol and Occidental, the charming town of Graton is lined with historic wooden buildings surrounded by vineyards and towering redwoods. The Underwood Bar & Bistro, which opened in 2002, is housed in one such building, a restored 19th-century roadhouse.From its website, “Underwood resembles an old time San Francisco bar or a classic Paris bistro, but dining here comes without the hassles of city parking or the attitude of Parisian waiters.” Milk glass pendant lights and red vinyl banquettes add to the old time feel of the restaurant.

Walking inside, the bartender, who looks like he could be John Oliver’s twin brother, threw his hands in the air in welcome. The nickel-topped bar was noisy and packed with locals all having a good old time, so we took one of the bistro tables lining the bar.

There is cozy dining room and a dog-friendly covered patio outside …

… but the action is in the bar. Our server told us both bartenders have worked here for more than 20 years.

With my Afib, I have not had a mixed drink since early March, however I did sneak one little sip of Tracy’s Manhattan. Please don’t tell my cardiologist.

There is an eclectic menu ranging from oysters to French bistro classics like Frisee aux Lardons and Pomme Frites to Thai food plus an extensive cocktail and wine list. The corkage fee is quite reasonable.

Kim and I threw caution (and a few extra bucks) to the wind and splurged on the Prime Angus Ribeye, which was grilled to medium-rare perfection, accompanied by baby carrots, broccolini, button mushrooms, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, rosemary reduction, gorgonzola butter and buttermilk onion rings. I dare say this was the best steak I’ve eaten in a long time. (Please don’t tell my cardiologist about this, either.)

Tracy and Mary went the Thai route with Mary ordering Pad Thai, prawns, stir-fried rice noodles, tofu, egg, garlic chives, ground peanuts, chile flake and bean sprouts.

The salads looked great, and I was very surprised Tracy passed on the Beet & Blood Orange Salad with lemon labneh (strained yogurt), pistachios, shaved fennel, endive and pomegranate molasses. Instead, she opted for the Pad Grapao Moo (please, no cow jokes), spicy stir-fried ground pork with long beans, Thai-style fried egg, prik nam pla (spicy fish sauce) and jasmine rice. The dish came with an extra side of prik nam pla, which Tracy immediately poured over the top. She likes spicy foods.

According to a 2025 Sonoma Magazine article, the chef, Mark Miller, fell in love with Thai cuisine during a trip to Southeast Asia in the 1990s. During the COVID pandemic years, Underwood switched to take-out Thai food only, and it has been on the menu ever since. 

The gentleman next to us said that Underwood makes one of the best hamburgers in the county. Given how fast he devoured it, it was either terrific or he hadn’t eaten in a week. Next time up in this area, I will for sure try one. Truthfully, there are a number of menu items from appetizers to desserts that intrigued us.

Unfortunately after our glutton-fest, we did not leave room for dessert, which was a bummer as the Meyer Lemon Panna Cotta was calling my name. 

We always love hidden gem restaurants, but I’ve never been to one in a hidden gem town. If you’re ever in this neck of the woods (literally), stop into a restaurant that will take you back in time while dining on some sensational dishes.

Underwood Bar & Bistro
9113 Graton Road
Graton, CA 95444
707.923.7023
Lunch: Wednesday – Sunday 11:30 am – 2 pm
Afternoon Menu: Tuesday – Sunday 2:30 pm – 5 pm
Dinner: Tuesday – Sunday 5 pm – 9 pm (9:30 Friday & Saturday)
Website